Papers by Draginja Maskareli
Književna istorija, 2024
U 2023. godini navršilo se tri decenije od smrti Pavla Vasića, srpskog slikara, istoričara umetno... more U 2023. godini navršilo se tri decenije od smrti Pavla Vasića, srpskog slikara, istoričara umetnosti, likovnog kritičara i univerzitetskog profesora. Deo njegovih profesionalnih interesovanja bio je vezan za istoriju odeće – kostima. Uspostavljanju i razvoju ove discipline u Srbiji Vasić je doprineo kao profesor na Fakultetu primenjenih umetnosti u Beogradu i autor više knjiga i mnogih naučnih radova. Kroz odabrane publikacije iz bogatog opusa Pavla Vasića ovaj rad ima za cilj da mapira teme iz oblasti istorije odeće kojima se bavio u svojoj istraživačkoj i pedagoškoj praksi, kao i da revalorizuje njegov metodološki pristup, stavljajući u fokus sistematizaciju i interpretaciju činjenica vezanih za odevanje u Srbiji i na zapadnom Balkanu u rano moderno i moderno doba.
![Research paper thumbnail of Tri haljine u muzeju: muzejski tezaurusi i moda u Srbiji u XIX i početkom XX veka [Summary: The Three Dresses in the Museum: Museum Thesauri and Fashion in Serbia in the 19th and Early 20th Centuries]](https://attachments.academia-assets.com/116593292/thumbnails/1.jpg)
Journal, Museum of Applied Art, 2023
Јавне збирке одеће представљају један од основних извора за студије моде у Србији у XIX и почетко... more Јавне збирке одеће представљају један од основних извора за студије моде у Србији у XIX и почетком XX века. Основни критеријум селекције приликом формирања тих збирки била су естетска и уметничка својства модних предмета, као и њихова национална симболика. Због тога се истраживачи моде у Србији у XIX и почетком XX века често суочавају са недовољно документованим и систематизованим тезаурусима, неразвијеном терминологијом и недоступношћу информација. Сегмент документације тезауруса коме није било посвећено довољно пажње јесу биографије појединачних предмета, тако да за многе од њих данас не знамо ко их је и када носио, иако је већина у музејску збирку ушла као део породичног наслеђа. На примеру три музејска модна предмета: хаљина МПУ, инв. бр. 5593, 5207 и 22891 из збирке Музеја примењене уметности у Београду, које су настале и ношене као венчане хаљине у Србији у периоду од 1878. до 1911. године, овај рад прати примену и употпуњавање њихове документацијске мере кроз интерпретацију и комуникацију на различитим музејским изложбама.
All the Colours of Black: Proceedings of the ICOM Costume Committee Annual Meeting in Edinburgh 2023, 2023
The 19th century in Serbia witnessed major changes in all spheres and the transition from a feuda... more The 19th century in Serbia witnessed major changes in all spheres and the transition from a feudal to a capitalist society. During this period, clothing also underwent a shift from the Ottoman-Balkan to European dress styles, influencing the construction of the Serbian national costume. Under European influence, the distinctive Ottoman-influenced colourfulness disappeared from certain elements of the national costume; hence, attire worn during the mourning period adopted dark or black hues, while bridal dresses became white. The use of black colour also started to appear in different clothing items and accessories as a fashionable color. Based on preserved sources, this paper aims to examine the introduction of black colour into the national costume for women in Serbia as well as its use within the context of European-influenced dress etiquette.
The Ritual Power of Clothing. Proceedings of the ICOM Costume Annual Meeting, Prague, Czech Republic, 20-28 August 2022, 2022
In 2019, the Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade received as a gift 33 color fashion plates, publis... more In 2019, the Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade received as a gift 33 color fashion plates, published in the German fashion magazine Die Modenwelt during the 1890s. The plates were given by the descendants of the Kalef family, one of many Sephardi families from Belgrade who were engaged in the textile and fashion trade and crafts. Preserved photographs of the family members, dating from the late 19 th and early 20 th centuries, are mostly kept in the National Library of Serbia. At the exhibition The Fashion World of the Kalef Family, held in the Museum in June 2022, the bestowed fashion plates were shown together with the family photographs, providing an insight into fashion's important role in the visualization of public and private identity through the use of clothes, as well as into the life of the Belgrade Sephardic community. Among other things, the photographs showed how the clothes were used in everyday and particular family rituals in the late 19 th and early 20 th centuries.
Fashion Museology: Beginnings and Challenges in Slovenia, Croatia and Serbia, 2020
Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade was founded in 1950 as the first, and still the only, museum in... more Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade was founded in 1950 as the first, and still the only, museum in Serbia specializing in applied art. One of the newly founded museum’s tasks was musealisation of fashion. Therefore, Textiles and Costumes Collection was immediately formed. This paper presents a brief overview of the Museum’s fashion collections’ development and the dynamics of exhibitions which depended on the Museum’s development strategies as well as social and political circumstances. In lieu of the Museum’s 70th anniversary this year, this paper connects the first fashion exhibition realized at the Museum in 1966 entitled Women’s fashion from the mid-19th century to the 1930s (from the collection of the Museum of Applied Art) and the last fashion exhibition entitled Fashion in Modern Serbia: Fashion in Serbia in the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century from the collection of the Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade opened in November 2019.
Innovation and Fashion: Proceedings of the ICOM Costume Committee annual meeting, Utrecht, The Netherlands, 10–15 June 2018, 2020
The 19th century was a turning point in the history of Serbia when the empowered bourgeoisie of t... more The 19th century was a turning point in the history of Serbia when the empowered bourgeoisie of the departing Ottoman province started to build a modern nation state. The article deals with the changes in dress patterns, induced by the modernization of the society, which involved a transition from the traditional Ottoman-influenced to the modern Western-style dress. Relying mainly on its own collection, the Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade has scheduled for November 2019 the exhibition on the 19th-and early 20th-century fashion in Serbia entitled Fashion in Modern Serbia. The development of the exhibition concept requires a new approach, departing from a traditional linear narrative and a large number of items in favor of a limited number of items organized into particular "sequences". Therefore, the article also discusses the issues of tradition and innovation in the Serbian fashion of the period, offering a tentative reinterpretation through the forthcoming exhibition.
![Research paper thumbnail of Muzej primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu i počeci muzealizacije mode u Srbiji : Odsek za tekstil i kostim 1950–1980 [Summary: Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade and the Beginnings of Fashion Museology in Serbia: Department of Textile and Costume 1950–1980]](https://attachments.academia-assets.com/55622296/thumbnails/1.jpg)
Journal, Museum of Applied Art, 2017
Fashion exhibitions in large museum centres nowadays get the "blockbuster" status, whereas the gr... more Fashion exhibitions in large museum centres nowadays get the "blockbuster" status, whereas the great interest in including fashion in museums, which can be observed both among the local and international professional audiences, highlights the need for a historical analysis of this area of study. The study tracks and analyzes the role of the Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade in the earliest period of fashion museology in Serbia. The Museum of Applied Art was founded in 1950 as the first specialized museum of this type in Serbia. The Department of Textile and Costume was established on the same occasion. Its first curator was the art historian Dobrila Stojanović. Along with collection building and sistematization, during the first three decades, the activities of the Department of Textile and Costume included various exhibitions and accompanying programmes. The first thematic museum exhibition dedicated to fashion in Serbia, "Women's Fashion from the mid-19th Century until the 1930s", was organized in 1966.
Over the years, the Department's fashion collection was supplied with new items through purchase and gifts. The acquisitions included clothing items such as gowns, cloaks, underwear and suits, as well as various accessories: caps, hats, head adornments, footwear, belts, bags, umbrellas, handkerchiefs, canes or business card boxes. The acquisition policy was primarily focused on the items of Serbian provenance, although the collection also included objects from other regions and cultures. This period was completed and closed in 1980 by a major study exhibition curated by Dobrila Stojanović – "Urban Dress in Serbia in the 19th and Early 20th Century". Together with the extensive exhibition catalogue, it is still a reference point for further study of the history of Serbian fashion. From today's perspective, it can be concluded that the Museum achieved significant results in this pioneering work, providing a solid foundation for the modern development of museology in general and particularly fashion museology.
Journal, Museum of Applied Art, 2013
Апстракт: Женска обућа из XIX и с почетка XX века чува се у збирци Одсека за текстил и костим Муз... more Апстракт: Женска обућа из XIX и с почетка XX века чува се у збирци Одсека за текстил и костим Музеја примењене уметности у Београду. Сачувани примерци обуће ношени су у Србији и у региону; они прате процес трансформације одевања грађанске класе на овом простору током XIX века, од традиционалне оријенталне ношње ка европској моди. Међу сачуваним предметима налази се обућа која се носила као део градске ношње (папуче, местве и нануле), као и модна обућа (ципеле и чизме), ношена углавном у свечаним приликама, али и као део свакодневног одевања. Поједини примерци модне обуће носе ознаке европских произвођача, али и познатих београдских модно-галантеријских трговина које су увозиле и продавале луксузне модне предмете.
![Research paper thumbnail of Svadbena moda u kolekciji srpskog građanskog kostima Muzeja primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu [Summary: Wedding Clothes from the Collection of Serbian Urban Costumes in the Belgrade Museum of Applied Art]](https://attachments.academia-assets.com/53907239/thumbnails/1.jpg)
Proceedings / International scientific conference Clothing as a Symbol of Identity, Bihać, 23/25 05 2011, 2012
Haljine sačuvane u kolekciji srpskog građanskog kostima Muzeja primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu,
k... more Haljine sačuvane u kolekciji srpskog građanskog kostima Muzeja primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu,
koje su pripadnice srpskog građanskog društva nosile kao venčane haljine, ali i u drugim prilikama
vezanim za obred venčanja (npr. veridba), nastale su u periodu između 1878. i 1914. godine. Među
sačuvanim haljinama nalaze se bindali haljine karakteristične za osmanski kostim, zatim haljine
sašivene u Srbiji po uzoru na evropsku modu, kao i haljine sašivene ili kupljene u Evropi (Venecija,
Beč, Pariz). Haljine iz kolekcije, kao nosioci tradicionalnih značenja odeće vezanih za identitet,
ilustruju proces tranzicije srpskog građanskog kostima od gradske nošnje nastale pod osmanskim
uticajem do evropskog modnog kostima. Posmatrane u kontekstu savremene muzeološke prakse
kao muzejski predmeti – dokumenti stvarnosti i nosioci informacija za čitav niz naučnih disciplina –
one postaju i slike vremena u kome su formirani njihovi komunikacijski i funkcionalni aspekti.
Journal, Museum of Applied Art, 2011
Odsek za tekstil i kostim Muzeja primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu predstavlja devet venčanih halji... more Odsek za tekstil i kostim Muzeja primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu predstavlja devet venčanih haljina iz svoje kolekcije. Reč je o haljinama koje su nastale u periodu između 1878. i 1914. godine i koje su pripadnice srpskog građanskog društva nosile kao venčane haljine, ali i u drugim prilikama vezanim za obred venčanja (npr. veridba). Među sačuvanim haljinama nalaze se bindali (bindallı) haljine karakteristične za osmanski kostim, zatim haljine sašivene u Srbiji po uzoru na evropsku modu, kao i haljine sašivene u Evropi (Venecija, Beč, Pariz). Osvrćući se na proces transformacije odevanja srpske građanske klase od orijentalnog ka evropskom modnom obrascu, cilj ovog teksta je da haljine iz kolekcije sagleda u stilskom, društvenom i istorijskom kontekstu vremena u kome su nastale.
Journal, Museum of Applied Art, 2006
Apstrakt: Legat Irine Simić čuva se u Muzeju primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu i sadrži 194 predmet... more Apstrakt: Legat Irine Simić čuva se u Muzeju primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu i sadrži 194 predmeta: umetničke slike, stilski nameštaj, tepihe, nakit, posuđe i dr. Kolekciju srebrnine iz legata čini 25 predmeta, uglavnom posuđa, stonog pribora i sitnih upotrebnih i ukrasnih predmeta koji se čuvaju u Odseku za metal i nakit. Većina predmeta iz kolekcije potiče iz 19. i prvih decenija 20. veka sa područja Zapadne Evrope i Rusije. Ovaj prilog donosi pregled osnovnih podataka o legatu Irine Simić i kolekciji srebrnine u okviru ovog legata.
Niš and Byzantium : Second Symposium, Niš 3–5. June 2002, The Collection of Scientific Works II, 2004
Reviews by Draginja Maskareli
ICOM Srbija : časopis Nacionalnog komiteta međunarodnog saveta muzeja - Srbija, 2024
Journal, Museum of Applied Art, 2018
ICOM Serbia : The National Committee Magazine, 2017
ICOM Srbija : časopis Nacionalnog komiteta međunarodnog saveta muzeja, 2015
Journal, Museum of Applied Art, 2015
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Papers by Draginja Maskareli
Over the years, the Department's fashion collection was supplied with new items through purchase and gifts. The acquisitions included clothing items such as gowns, cloaks, underwear and suits, as well as various accessories: caps, hats, head adornments, footwear, belts, bags, umbrellas, handkerchiefs, canes or business card boxes. The acquisition policy was primarily focused on the items of Serbian provenance, although the collection also included objects from other regions and cultures. This period was completed and closed in 1980 by a major study exhibition curated by Dobrila Stojanović – "Urban Dress in Serbia in the 19th and Early 20th Century". Together with the extensive exhibition catalogue, it is still a reference point for further study of the history of Serbian fashion. From today's perspective, it can be concluded that the Museum achieved significant results in this pioneering work, providing a solid foundation for the modern development of museology in general and particularly fashion museology.
koje su pripadnice srpskog građanskog društva nosile kao venčane haljine, ali i u drugim prilikama
vezanim za obred venčanja (npr. veridba), nastale su u periodu između 1878. i 1914. godine. Među
sačuvanim haljinama nalaze se bindali haljine karakteristične za osmanski kostim, zatim haljine
sašivene u Srbiji po uzoru na evropsku modu, kao i haljine sašivene ili kupljene u Evropi (Venecija,
Beč, Pariz). Haljine iz kolekcije, kao nosioci tradicionalnih značenja odeće vezanih za identitet,
ilustruju proces tranzicije srpskog građanskog kostima od gradske nošnje nastale pod osmanskim
uticajem do evropskog modnog kostima. Posmatrane u kontekstu savremene muzeološke prakse
kao muzejski predmeti – dokumenti stvarnosti i nosioci informacija za čitav niz naučnih disciplina –
one postaju i slike vremena u kome su formirani njihovi komunikacijski i funkcionalni aspekti.
Reviews by Draginja Maskareli