Yangrou Paomo

Synopsis

Xi'an's most representative traditional delicacy, historically known as "lamb soup," traces its origins back to the Western Zhou period. The culinary techniques of two time-honored brands, Tong Sheng Xiang and Lao Sun Jia, have been recognized as national intangible cultural heritage.

Overview

Yangrou Paomo (lamb soup with shredded bread) is the most representative traditional delicacy of Xi'an, Shaanxi Province, historically known as "yang geng" (mutton soup). This traditional snack, made primarily with beef or lamb and tuotuo mo (a type of baked flatbread), is renowned nationwide for its unique flavor profile—"rich ingredients, mellow taste, tender meat, thick broth, chewy bread, and aromatic fragrance"—and is hailed as "Xi'an's Number One Bowl."

In 1986, beef and lamb paomo was included in the state banquet menu, becoming an iconic dish representing the culinary culture of Northwest China. In 2008 and 2021, the paomo-making techniques of two Xi'an time-honored brands—Tongshengxiang and Laosunjia—were successively inscribed on the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

History

The history of Yangrou Paomo can be traced back to the Western Zhou Dynasty (c. 11th century BCE), where it was initially a "ritual feast" offered by kings and nobles during ancestral temple sacrifices or for entertaining distinguished guests, then called "yang geng." Northern Song Dynasty literary giant Su Dongpo once praised it in a poem: "Gansu has bear's paw, but Shaanxi's finest is mutton soup."

In the 17th year of the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty (1644 CE), "Tianxi Lou," a restaurant specializing in Yangrou Paomo, opened at Qiaozi Kou on Xi'an's West Street. Over the following century, numerous famous paomo restaurants emerged. In the 24th year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty (1898 CE), Sun Guangxian and his nephew Sun Wannian founded "Laosunjia." In 1920, "Tongshengxiang" opened in Xi'an. Both time-honored brands remain representatives of Xi'an paomo today.

Making the Dish

The preparation of Yangrou Paomo is extremely meticulous. Diners must personally tear the tuotuo mo into soybean-sized pieces, which are then cooked by the chef. This process itself is a unique dining experience.

The four cooking methods each have distinct characteristics:
- Ganpao: The broth is fully absorbed into the bread, resulting in the richest flavor.
- Koutang: A mouthful of broth remains, offering a fresh and savory taste.
- Shuiweicheng: More broth, less bread, light and delicious.
- Danzou: Broth and bread are served separately.

Heritage Brands

Tongshengxiang's beef and lamb paomo making technique was inscribed on the second batch of the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List in 2008. Representative inheritor Wu Ping started working at Tongshengxiang in 1981, studied under a master, and has upheld the traditional craft to this day.

Laosunjia's lamb paomo making technique was inscribed on the fifth batch of the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List in 2021. Passed down from its founder, it has now reached its sixth generation. Its broth base features "Sichuan pepper as the leading note," presenting a bright yellow color and rich Sichuan pepper aroma, emphasizing "determining the broth by the bread, and the cooking time by the broth."

Cultural Significance

In Xi'an, eating Yangrou Paomo is not just a meal; it's a ritual. Diners sit around the table, patiently tearing the bread into pieces one by one. This process is called "bai mo" (tearing the bread)—it is both an act of waiting and an attitude of slow living.

Yangrou Paomo is hailed as a "living fossil" of Xi'an's culinary culture and an important representative of the Hui ethnic group's food culture in Northwest China. It attracts a large number of tourists every year who travel specifically to Xi'an to experience the fun of "bai mo."

References

1. China Intangible Cultural Heritage Website (Tongshengxiang): https://www.ihchina.cn/art/detail/id/14653.html
2. China Intangible Cultural Heritage Website (Laosunjia): https://www.ihchina.cn/project_details/23792.html
3. Baidu Baike: https://baike.baidu.com/item/西安羊肉泡馍/10454882
4. Guangming Online: https://news.gmw.cn/2025-12/06/content_38461341.htm